GIANT SPIDER IN MY COIN CUP. THE BIGGEST SPIDER IVE EVER SEEN IN MY WHOLE LIFE. LIKE MINI TARANTULA.
The not-so-little bastard couldn't get out so I had to tip over the glass. D: Casualty!
I sprayed the fucker with roach spray and now he's dead. There better not be a nest of babies in my house somewhere. Shit, now I'm all jumpy.
I've gotten my sleep schedule back on track! I get sleepy around 10 and I am in bed by 11 nearly every night and I don't have any problems waking up at 6 (even though I did hit snooze til 6:25). I wish I had procured a hot water bottle ages ago. Sticking it between the sheets before crawling into bed is lovely! And its nice to kick down and warm up my feet. I just could never find one like we have at home -- an ugly red soft plastic one. All the ones I'd seen until recently in Japan are a hard plastic disc. They all come with cute covers but I didn't want a hard one. Anyway, I managed to find one on clearance at Ito Yokado last month and I finally got to use it. Boo to cramps.
So I wasn't as productive yesterday as I should have been. I vacuumed and did laundry. The kitchen and bathroom as still undone and I should wash the floor too. I guess I'll be waking up early on Saturday to do it.
I am not looking forward to today. I can't even think of what the kids are doing... something about the alphabet. I didn't really read through the next hour's teaching plan. Whatever it is, it's going to be painfully boring for me after the 3rd time.
Today was another full day. I'm kind of glad my first class got cancelled but that still meant I had 4. I come back down from 3rd to change my textbooks and Kameyama-san is waiting for me in the hallway. "You can speak Chinese, can't you?" she asks me and when I say yes, takes me into the principal's office. There's a boy and his mom and sister there who is transferring in to our school from China and they want me to talk to him. They don't really need me there since the mom and sister speak (enough) Japanese but I guess maybe they wanted someone who can speak to them in their own language? I don't know. But oh my god, I've forgotten everything. I couldn't even remember the word "when". Fuck. He's 3rd year age (14), but can't speak, write, read or understand Japanese at all. And the parents want him to be able to go to high school next year... I wonder what's going to happen... he said he could speak a bit of English but he's not good (haha as if Japanese kids are good, and especially not our 3rd years this year). They want him to just communicate anyway he can. I hope he can make some friends. This kid Kobayashi's mom is Chinese apparently and there are a couple Mongolian kids but I don't think that's going to help at all.
He's starting on Thursday and the school year just started so he'll have the whole year to get up to speed. I think he should be fine. I recommended going to check out the Kashiwa Interantional Relations Association because they've got free Japanese classes for foreigners. Look how far I've come in a year without any particular studying. If he studies and is surrounded by Japanese constantly, he should be able to become at least conversational by year end. His mom and sister (and stepdad?) all speak so he'll get help at home. He won't have a huge problem with kanji and reading comprehension but it's still a bit worrying. I just feel really bad that I can't speak Chinese anymore so I'm no help to him. Well, if he writes it down I can read it and look it up. It makes me want to study a bit. I should let the teachers know to tell him if he needs something... he can ask me. Even though I won't be able to do much. Kyoto-sensei contacted the BOE and asked them to send a helper/tutor who speaks Chinese to help him catch up a few days a week.
I apologize for being shit at updating. I should really write about my daily BS here as well to keep people in the know.
I had my first run with the new grade 6 textbook today. And the fancy e-blackboard. It's great, unless a kid knocks the table and then I have to recallibrate it. I think I might just do that after each lesson or two just for the sake of keeping things working properly. :/ Aside from a few minor technical difficulties, it was pretty good. Despite not having ANY materials before hand or knowing what the fuck what going to happen, I jumped right in. It helped that I was using the textbook last year. I enjoy the new technology because it means I don't have to make cards or posters or anything anymore. Each kid has a book so they can follow and have something to look at and I don't have to waste paper photocopying. I've even got my own classroom! Well, it's not mine, it's the conference room but I'm the only one using it for class. It's really bare and boring, so I asked if I can hang posters. They might move classrooms around but it will make things brighter. I should recruit kids to colour alphabet cards for me to hang in the room.
This year is going to kill me. I've got grade 6 on Thursdays (6 classes) and grade 5 on Fridays (5 classes) and English club every other week, though I don't know when that is going to start. I'm not going to get any time to rest during the work week at all if Toyoshiki throws 4-5 classes a day at me too. I think I am actually doing more work than an actual teacher. They have periods where the kids go off and do other things, like art or music or just self-study. I don't get those. I did get a raise this year, but it's not that much. Tomorrow is a bit of a respite because the grade 1's welcome assembaly is 2nd period and then something else is going on during 5th. I can use that time to make posters and pretty up the classroom.
Everyone liked the sweets I brought from Korea. :D I made a great impression on everyone. And one of the new teachers, Fuｔaba-sensei, is a cutie! The kids were all genki and into it but I need to get a bell to ring to make them shut up and save my voice. Maybe I should get a kitchen timer too. If I have to talk for 6 periods, 2 days in a row, I'm going to lose my voice pretty damn quick.
I'm a bonified resident of Kashiwa now; I got an invoice in the mail to pay residential tax. 12,000 yen. ;_;
Saturday, March 28th
On our second day, we took a tour of the Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea. We had to get up at 6am to get ready and be down at the hotel where the tour bus left by 8am to check in. The office was on the 6th floor of the Lotte Hotel (the biggest conglomerate company in Korea, so I’m told) and there were mostly Asian tourists (Japanese and Korean) waiting for their tours. This company runs them in all three languages (and maybe more) and our group was by far one of the smaller ones.
Once we got on the bus and on the road our guide gave us a run down of the dos and don’ts of the tour. Since we were going into (basically) a military facility, we couldn’t wear certain things (no ripped jeans, military style, American or Korean flags on t-shirts, skimpy clothes for girls, flip-flops) and if someone told you to do (or not to do) something, you do it. I thought it was a little late to be telling us not to wear certain things since we were already on the road to the DMZ but no one had any problems. Apparently some American woman was arrested recently because she wandered off into a restricted zone but couldn’t understand the guards and tried to run because she was scared. On top of all that, we couldn’t take pictures in most places inside the DMZ.
Once we got out of Seoul city proper and onto the (only) highway north, the guide pointed out a fence along the Han River. The river is fenced off with guard tours along it because the Han connects to the Imjim River which flows down from North Korean and apparently spies used to float down and infiltrate the city that way. That fence is called the CCL (Civilian Control Line) and it’s illegal to cross it without permission. When we got to the boarder of the CCL, an officer got on the bus, saluted everyone and checked all our passports.
Our tour was the 3rd Tunnel tour. There are a total of four tunnels that were built by the North under the border to attack South Korea. The first two were found in the 60’s and the third was found in October 1978. The most recent (aptly named 4th tunnel) was found in the 90’s. The tunnel is 1,635km long, and about 2m long and high. They say that it was capable of moving a full division of soldiers in full gear in an hour to attack Seoul. There’s a monorail built to reach the tunnel from the surface. It’s wet and musty down there, but you can only walk about 400m. There’s a door at one end that blocks off the tunnel (which is packed with dynamite just in case) and another door that blocks the North Korean side. It’s kind of a moot point because the North Korean side has already collapsed.
Unification Monument at the 3rd Tunnel
After the tunnel tour, we drove up to the Dora Observatory. From there, you can look out to North Korea across the DMZ and Military Demarcation Line, the invisible line that marks the border between North and South. We could see the only two villages within the DMZ, each flying their respective Korean Flags. Apparently those people don’t have to pay tax or serve in the military and get support from the government because they live in such a dangerous area. We were even lucky enough to see the closest and 2nd largest city in North Korea, Gaeseong. Apparently the DMZ is supposed to be some kind of ecological marvel because it hasn’t been touched by modernity for the last 50 years but it looked pretty brown and dead to me. But then again, so did the rest of the countryside even outside the DMZ so I guess spring hadn’t arrived yet. There was a line painted on the ground that you had to stand behind when taking pictures so you can’t really see anything. :/ It was kind of hazy too.
The observatory building
Trust me, it's North Korea.
Our next stop was Dorasan Station, the last train station in South Korean. It was built in 2002, hoping to connect to the North Korean railway system but it’s never been used because the border is closed by the North. The only people allowed to cross are cargo trucks and people going to work in the Gaesong Industrial Complex (supported by South Korean aid) but even that’s been closed recently due to North Korean’s imminent missile/satellite launch. The warehouses at Dorasan Station that were built to hold the products produced at the complex are empty. The station was really pretty and yet really sad. It’s completely empty and there’s nothing around. There’s a train sitting at the platform waiting for passengers; you could pay 500 won to go in and look around but there’s no where to go.
Donor’s plaque at the station
Map showing the train line and stations connecting North and South Korea (and our lovely guide)
The station building; the roof is designed to look like two overlapping hands to symbolize the joined Koreas
The station lobby
The waiting area
Pictures with the guards :D
Our last stop was Imjingak (Freedom Bridge) and a park outside the DMZ where we had lunch. It seemed kind of strange to have a park in the middle of nowhere, so close to something really quite terrifying but it was really beautiful. There was an amusement park and a new entertainment complex was being built. The bridge was used to exchange prisoners after the Korean War. South Korea released their POWs and gave them the option of staying but the North didn’t release everyone and didn’t give them a choice. The CCL marks the end of the bridge and there are so many wishes for peace and freedom stuck onto the fence. You can see the railway line going into the DMZ that’s never been used (or at least not for half a century, anyway).
Wishes
The Freedom Bridge
“The train wants to run.”
The Civilian Control Line fence
Plaque on the bridge
Beside the bridge was an altar build by the South Korean government? For families to pray for their lost family and ancestors that they can’t meet in North Korea. On holidays, the stone table is covered in offerings.
Bulgogi for lunch.
We got back to Seoul around 3pm and went back to our hotel to rest up before going out clubbing again. This time, we went to Homo Hill in Itaewon (Seoul’s Roppongi). Itaewon is very close to an American military base and so Itaewon has a really bad reputation for fights and violence between Koreans and foreigners. The first thing we see when we get there is a bunch of Americans in cowboy hats drunkenly meander down the street, yelling at each other. It wasn’t as bad as all that, we went into a little bar for a cocktail and then did some club hopping. It was probably the size of Shinjuku’s Nichome area but wasn’t nearly as busy. It was nice having some fucking space to dance for a change (not like at Arty’s the Sardine Can in Nichome). We even had some model walk-offs because we could. The club we ended up at was only just starting to fill up by the time we decided to leave around 2am.
Andrew’s deciding what to wear.
I’m deciding to go to sleep.
Takeshi models some Korean white strips.
The boys are ready to party.
Soju is going to be my new drink of choice. It’s almost cheaper than water.
Homo Hill, right next to Hooker Hill, adjacent to Tranny Hill.
Because it’s too funny.
At the first bar, I’m trying to be all artsy with my camera.
Thursday, March 26th
I have a history with traveling that makes me really paranoid about
taking flights and going places for the first time so I check and
double and triple check things to make sure everything runs smoothly
(ie I don't get lost). We managed to assemble at Hamamatsucho station
on time and get to Haneda Airport
on Thursday with no problems. The only bump in the road was that we
didn't realize we had to take a bus to the international terminal but
that was no problem. There was no line up and the guy who checked us in
was super nice though it takes quite a long time when 5 people travel
together. I don't recall family check-ins ever taking so long but maybe
it's faster if you all have the same last name (or are from the same
country, at least).
My initial impression of Korea: holy shit, is it dirty. There was trash all over the sides of the roads, just lying on the street. They don't have dumpsters like Japan, though they are slightly better at having garbage cans for trash. And it smells. Not constantly but every once and a while you get a whiff of something foul and it's not nice.
We got into our hostel and dumped our stuff and went to find something to eat. Andrew was on about street meat but we ended up at Lotteria instead. We asked for a jimjilbang (like a sento) in the area and went and had a soak there before bed. They are different than sentos, but more like saunas. You go in and get washed up like a sento or onsen but then you wear shorts and a t-shirt and go to a co-ed area that has rooms of different temperatures and where you can eat and sleep. We only stayed for about an hour before heading back to sleep.
Friday, March 27th
On our first day, we met up with Andrew's friend Semi for lunch. We
actually saw her every day of our trip! She and Andrew met when they
both went on exchange to Japan in high school and she was working in Japan
last year, which was where I met her. She took us around and played
tour guide which was awesome. We went for local noodle specialty and
then did a tour of one of the palaces. Changdeokgung (Changdeok Palace) is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site and is the best preserved of the five grand palaces in Seoul.
The tour was only so-so because there were so many people. Our guide had a little microphone/speaker thing that could make her louder but she would talk and walk at the same time which a no-no for tours. There were also a good 50 or so people in the group. It was really interesting learning about how the Korean royal family lived. This palace was originally built in the Joseon dynasty, in 1405, and used right up until the last king died in the 1920s and the remaining royal family lived there until they died in the 80s.
Donhwamun Gate: the main palace gate. Built 1412, the oldest of the gates still standing.
Injeongjeon: the throne hall where kings were coronated and received foreign diplomats. A
designated national treasure, originally built 1405, destroyed in Imjin
Wars, restored 1609, destroyed by fire in 1803; the current structure
dates from 1804.
Seonjeongjeon: the administrative chambers, where the king discussed state affairs. This
is the only structure in the palace with a blue tiled roof, the colour
associated with dragons which symbolized the king’s administrative
office. Our tour guide was totally bitchy but I loved it. She kept asking for responses from the crowd when she asked questions.
Huijeongdang:
inside the king’s bedchamber. I didn't take as many pictures as I would
have liked to of inside the buildings because the lighting was crap and
I didn't want to miss what the guide was saying.
Daejojeon: the queen’s residence
The
roof of the queen’s residence was different than the rest: there was no
double ridge along the top, which was thought to allow the spirit of
the dragon to enter easily to help her conceive the next king.
Nakseonjae: this complex was built by the last king, Heonjong, for his second wife. The architecture is very simple, compared with the other buildings in the palace. This is where the last crown princess lived (Nashimoto-no-Miya Masako of Japan) until her death in 1989, I think.
Gyujanggak and Juhamnu: the royal library and research institute lies in the middle of the Secret Garden. The books that belonged to this library were moved to Seoul National University during the Japanese occupation and the Juhamnu was turned into an area for the queen to grow silkworms.
Yeonhwadang: a pavilion for royals to rest in the Secret Garden. The garden was a place for the king to come practice archery and horseback riding. They would also hold court examinations here in the presence of the king.
Semi's friend Pyeongju, Semi, Ben and Takeshi walking the Secret Garden.
Back at the beginning, looking fabulous.
After the palace tour, I wanted to go to Bukchon. The name means “Northern Village” and is between Gyeongbukgung (the main palace) and Changdeokgung. This area was where people who worked in and for the palaces lived. Today, with over 900 hanok (traditional houses) crammed together, it’s still very much like it was 600 years ago. We found the Bukchon Traditional Culture Centre and the volunteer there gave us a short tour. Usually, you have to call a day ahead to arrange it in your language but it must have been a slow day because he took us right away.
Jaedong Elementary school: our guide said that many military generals attended this school.
According to our guide, Korean people believe that everything has a spirit, even trees. So
that’s why they won’t cut down this tree, but build around it, even
though it’s totally in the way and makes a huge mess in the fall.
This area was surrounded by two rivers that gave good drainage. The village was built up around yin and yang and the five elements theory so it was thought that the North Village was a really prosperous place to live. Even today, some people think living in this area will bring good luck and fortune.
Good luck phrases are pasted on the door in the spring so that there will be a good harvest in the fall.
The view from the top of Gahoedong street. You can see Seoul tower in the distance.
The front door of the house that the president of Korea lived in before being elected. He thought that living in Bukchon would bring him good luck; I guess it worked.
Bukchon is being maintained as a cultural centre so it’s really wealthy for that reason. We saw some modern houses and really artsy ones too. Apparently
a big corporation bought some land here and build a bunch of houses
(kind of like subdivisions back home) but now people want to have
“Korean” houses so they are renovating back to the Hanok style.
Our last stop was a dental office that has been around since the 1920s. It’s in a hanok and Korean people go there because they feel more at peace than a regular Western office. We could go inside and look and it was really tiny but pretty. The buildings are square with a garden in the middle. I ended up taking a fall inside and now have a monster bruise on my leg. :( I didn’t take any pictures so I’ll edit when I get some.
With our guide. :) What a nice guy.
Afterwards we went for coffee and hit up a bookstore to look for a book for Yvonne’s friend.
Because I was in Brownies. :D
Gyeongbukgung Palace: the main palace of the Joseon kings. The main gate is under restoration so the whole complex is walled off with ugly plasterboard. This is the bigger palace and they use it to film period dramas on Mondays.
At night we went to Hongdae, the clubbing area near Yonsei University. Lots of bars and places to eat along the streets. We got asked by several random people the direction of bars while we were standing on the street. On the last Friday of every month they have an “all you can enter” deal where you pay 20,000 won and you can go into all the clubs for the night.
The little stall we ate built around this little cinnamon tree.
We met Chris from the States who was also staying at our hostel.
Makkoli, Korean rice wine. Really delicious!
Kompei!
Pajeon
Another kind of jeon
Tteokboggi (mochi and tempura in spicy sauce)
We ended up going to Harlem because there was no line up and they play “Black Music”. Whatever that’s supposed to be.
